WELL GROOMED

Here's a good question that was recently posted emailed to me:

My brother is getting married next spring and is having a very hard time deciding between a tuxedo and a dark suit. What do you think works best? And what would be your pick for a groom in 2008, assuming it's a 5:00 P.M. wedding and in New York.

What any man chooses to wear on his wedding day is obviously a deeply personal choice, unless he's been told what to wear by his bride-to-be (which I suspect happens more often than not). So while I wouldn't dare to dictate what any groom should wear, I would be delighted to serve up some inspiration. In my mind, wedding garb is divided into three categories: exceedingly formal (white tie, tails, or morning suit), respectfully traditional (either a dark suit or a tuxedo and black tie), and eccentric (I've seen capes, seventies three-piece suits, floral shirts, etc). All three can work equally well as long as they fit in with the overall feeling of the wedding, the location, and of course have some connection to what the bride is wearing. The one strong feeling I have is that a man should stand out from the crowd and look like he is, in fact, getting married. This can be easily accomplished with something as simple as a flower tucked into the lapel. And my last thought is that, even if your future wife has definitive plans for what you're wearing on the big day, make certain you're comfortable and happy -- in other words, don't be scared to put your foot down -- it may be the last chance you get!

Both of Audrey Hepburn's wedding looks (this and the one below) are among my all-time favorites. And her grooms both kept it simple with a dark suit, long tie, and corsage. Audrey Hepburn and Mel Ferrer, 1954.


Audrey Hepburn and Italian psychiatrist Andrea Dotti on their wedding day, 1969.


As unconventional as it may be, Mick and Bianca Jagger's wedding might just be my absolute favorite. Unconventional yet formal and totally in line with their boho rock star lifestyle. St. Tropez, 1971.



I love how this groom and the one in the photo below both add a little bit of extra style to their dark suits. The waistcoat and the double-breasted blazer both add a bit of the unexpected to an otherwise respectfully traditional wedding look. Peter Oxley (bassist for the Australian pop-rock band the Sunnyboys) and Alena Czeknovska, Caxton Hall, London, 1969.



Fashion photographer Frank Sweeney and model Carol Chilvers at their wedding, 1966.


This was one of my favorite weddings. It was at a yacht club in Easthampton, New York and it was a true combination of both the bride's and the groom's style. My friend Anh favors couture and her husband, Bart, couldn't be less formal -- so they met in the middle on their wedding day. She toned her city-girl sophistication down a bit with natural hair and a blue bow on her dress, and he kicked his surfer boy nonchalance up a notch with a silk tie and pinstripe suit, meeting each other a comfortable place in the middle. Easthampton, NY, 2006.

ROCK IT BOY!

I knew you guys bought those prada a month ago, yet haven't see any of you rock it in parties, not once, dont even get me started with on-street and work places, what's the matter? Wall Street is empty, your boss is fired, everyone is broke, what, you gonna wait it all out till the whole fashion industry of milan got screwed? God forbid you, time to rock it boy, show me your "let them eat cake" kinda attitude.

Oh... also, I thought those black velvet might be an option for fall too. There’s a new, lusty Thin White Duke at the door, let him in.

Talking about the thin white duke, you could also rock it like Patrick Wolf... I'm kidding... No, I'm not... What? The guy is a british indie-rock hero!

Now lets be serious of how you really gonna rock it... like a rockstar.

The Spoon. We suspect that singer Britt Daniel (front, center) wouldn't know Raf Simons from Gene Simmons, but the guy (and his Austin-based bandmates) knows a thing or two about clean, well-tailored style. Credit the group's fondness for upgrading the indie-rock basics: Think leather boots (not sneakers), well-cut trousers (not jeans), and shirts with collars (not T-shirts). In fact, that last one is such a sticking point that Daniel famously refuses to be photographed in a tee.

THE GIRL CAN'T HELP IT

Sure, when that poor little girl from an insanely rich family decided to make it on her own, she has to be a model or actress. They all want to "breathe freely" and don't want to fall for the old house cliche circle. Un~Huh~We get that. Lydia Hearst, as you can see from her last name, the Hearst, reported 3 billion dollars net worth in private holding to one of the world's most famous publication houses - Hearst Commnications,Inc. which was founded by William Randolph Hearst, the New York based company publishes magazines and newspapers including Cosmopolitan, Esquire, Harper's Bazaar, etc. Sir Hearst was basically the origin to one of the most influential films of all time, the 1941's Citizen Kane. And Lydia is his great granddaughter. The girl is actually doing pretty well of her" make it on my own" career, graced several Vogue Covers, one of them happened to be shot by Steven Meisel for Italian Edition, and grabbed some considerable blue-chip contracts, making a lit bit scandalous occasions from time to time, but compare with her mother's (Google Patty Hearst in your own language, you wont believe it) Lydia is good enough for a 20 something heiress, actually kinda dull.

You might not be interested in those Park Avenue door to door chic'o'chats, so what about the Following?

Sean Opry and Lydia in jeans for.... I dont know what that is for... could be Puma or some random photoshots. Feel the blood bumping already?

People say do not try to pop things out when you dont even know what are you talking about. Grapes dosen't like to judge...at all. Lydia seems like a smart girl. She deserves more, and def beyond some cheap sportswear designing. She has that business giant in her blue blood, that should mean something. Cult Classic is not a definition for low energy.

RICHARDSON PLAYS DECENCY

Terry Richardson plays decency with Chad White...... for a second.

I did not see this coming. But I actually like this. Barack Obama by Terry Richardson

I 

Royal Casual

Andrea Casiraghi, only he could made up post these bum water-mark and crazy-low pixies photos. Royalty's pictures are so hard to find cos they are not "Legally" the celebrities.

Here we have, Andrea in Paris (upfront) a few days ago, surprisingly without his girlfriend. 

Andrea has the highest level of casual cool, just like his other royal stylish folks, reminds me the 60's cannes modern movies all the time. He basically just put on a buncha old shits but in flawless qualities. Trust me, you have Andrea's wardrobe, you just dont have racing cars and yachts and valentino couture suits and glamours night-outs with social stars (left) like he dose. But you could def dress like a prince without a title. Cos thats what princes do, casual cool.

Below: Andrea in SOHO. New York City

Lunch with his girlfriend in paris. Yep, that's a ferrari.

Russian Soul. VOGUE RUSSIA 10 years anniversary

We have a new respect for Vogue Russia now. For the 10 years anniversary, Vogue Russia brings you the Russian Soul--- hand made on the Matryoshka Dolls. Those Designer dolls were suppose to made specially for Vogue Russia's anniversary celebration, therefore no way in hell to find those lovely ones on the market. Money is not an issue, but passion and heart showed their european pals that they care, care about their own creatives and proud of it and will to make it chic and high in the point of fashion. The tradition, turned out to be the coolest idea.

While we flipped through those glossy pages of Vogue Russia, Something came up in my mind: Oh! Great! Now even Vogue Russia is better than Vogue China.

The truly Icon

"Why oh just why. I ve never found Kate Moss attractive. She is not beautiful at all. I will never understand why certain people think she is an icon and that she is beautiful."

"This discussion should be closed a decade ago.... Who is the first men's fashion Icon? Louis XIV?"

"No. Of cause not that king of all the perverts. Its Beau Brummell."

"Ah....Beau Who?"

"Brummell. The man invented Dandyism. The first Social Celebrity."

"He did what?!"

"Dandy. If he didn't invent dandyism, he did at least define it...... So, dandyism is a lifestyle that celebrates elegance, refinement, witty cynicism, and aristoratic elegance. A very expensive lifestyle, no doubt. The movement developed in the mid 18th century, but the early 19th saw its height. This is why we associate top hats and tailcoats with dandies."

" I know what dandy is. Ah~ Dont they have a Beau Brummell Boutique in Downtown Soho?"

"Yeah. That one. Where your husband and I buy socks."

"So you were telling me , that it was Mr Brummell who brought the men's modern daily wear in life, the three pieces, the evening suits, the lord style, the british,  everything that shaped menswear today!"

" Plus, very important, an unbearably arrogant expression. Don't you feel like slapping him."

"Ture. The expression. Straight posture, well-fitting clothes and all the accoutrements of a refined gentleman...... top hat, tailcoat, white gloves, glass on a string to look down your nose through, walking-stick and probably a silver caravat pin. And a small waist."

"Also, the black and dark blue. Color was such a big deal from then as now. If not Brummell had done such things, we the men probably ended up in Pink Heels and Orange Velvet like french."

"Yeah. Then what happened to him then, why nobody's talking about that?"

" And people say you dont pay attention. Well. Brummell, like lots of other great playboys, died lonely and tragically in france."

"He was straight?"

"Yeah. Says the Britain Encyclopedia."

"So we got this 'Beau' word from him?"

"Sounds about right."

"So maybe Kate Moss Stole his style.lol I mean they are british."

How old is he? 12 ?

So another model agency is out there (only if you could ever imagine there is more space).

A models Amsterdam just booked out their brand new (baby) face. Perhaps is the first and only male model on their board. The kid named David, from Amsterdam, born in 1992, so the joke is on he is not 12. We heard New York agencies all crying out loud, for the love of god, even a 1994 borned Major boy looks more mature than this. ( Dont worry, they didnt signed that 1994, US Law, under 16 years old considered illegal).

But do we really need this? Yes the kid has it all, looking pretty promising in front of the camera, and the super skinny vibe give an unlimited shape+shoot to those I-found-my-models-on-myspace Editors. David didnt got Balenciaga Exclusive, apparently his agent thought he had a shot, since every other skinny boys were on that, then why not adding an extra sweetheart. Looks like someone works for Balenciaga actually has a heart and a normal size of brain. Not booking him is the right thing to do, or we'd suffer from the idea "my cousin's son is striping around me" kinda awkward moment.

Come to think about it, When Mathias first signed with NYM, he was 19 years old right? He looked peachy and pinky but you actually known that is 19 years old guy who's about to kick in the university. And what is this now, only sickness. 

A word for A Models: Let little David Finish his high school first. BTW, do you guys have the parents licensing signatures for sure?

What Have Petey Done

Remember that kid who won the V man magazine's first Ford model search contest( btw they should totally change the name to Ford Trophy or something), and got his name incorrect addressed as"Petey Smith" and then the correction="Wright" and as promised featured in V man magazine's cover and edits shot by Hedi Slimane, signed with Ford and Elite and did some works in Paris ( was it YSL catalog and McQueen's catwalk?) and headed to new york snapped by models.com and then got lost?

Yeah.. we miss him too. He disappeared on the glossy pages as soon as he started glowing on us. Maybe he's home at school or wrestling....he should be 20 years old by now and at the second year of college in Tennessee. Or maybe he is just 5 blocks away from you. (one of our dear dear friends spotted him 2 days ago at beige, yeah the hippest GAY BAR in town, no, I m not suggesting that hes gay, yes he was with another male model, but also, another girl.)

While the V man Ford second model search is about now, (the deadline is set to  24th Nov.) there is a consideration: if the first winner already gone with the wind why so bother for the second? If shot by Hedi Slimane and signed with Ford dosent mean that much in this area then what will? Either Petey was already tired of that shallow, glamour world or the world didnt offer that much to him to stay, we seriously doubt that either of them is the reason, then it must be the  " no booking calls" bummer!

In the business of magazines, (some of you naive kids might think it only works like one certain editor in chief, say Anna Wintour, bossing around all the time, then a magical fashion bible just popped like that. But No.) one such a power fashion magazine has to led the way by massive strong clients and they have to offer something that unique than others, say special features. ( like bazzar has the world best dress list, vanity fair has the hollywood issue, the Times has the "most influential"), V man magazine came up with the idea called " the model contest".

What's not to like, Ford is one of the sponsors, meaning money will paid. Promotions getting people to talk, meaning attentions will paid. So the thing is really not about some kid's modeling career, nobody cares. In fact we have 10.000 proofs that half a dozen of  the boys who entered the final were from certain agencies, not that anyone is cheating, they did the right thing, it has to be like that or out of control. Petey didnt even got that much votes online, we are not saying that he is not qualified, he's beautiful, and he was the best among these kids. But really, being an apple pie in super-agents eyes has nothing to do with the popularity to the public.

Vman has all the dream sources that will put a teenage little nobody on the map, we have to admit, when petey's black and white sensation was out, the first thing we did was to search Ford's website. Even now look at his face reminds us that "this was the next face of men's fashion". Vman 11 is still on the newsstands and petey's silhouette is still covered with golden lines. Yet no one got anything new from the man himself despite a remade blurred casting card on the board of Ford. He is still out there apparently, he was in new york and we just said, but shouldn't a V man cover star and fashion master's lover boy be a lit bit more on the spot, like at least kick in top 10 of the world's ranking?

So, do you have what it takes to be on the cover of VMAN?

Continuing the Hot boys countdown: INTRODUCING- Dennis @ NYM

Dennis Johnson, betcha noticed this icy-blue babe back in the Calvin Klein show in Milan Last season, he opened and closed the major show. Now with new york model magt (the agency which is responsible for pushing-in 75% of the blonde boys in this biz). They take him pretty serious, massive public promotions and talk-abouts, and just before you know it, Steven Klein is in the house! The ultra hot spread for interview magazine shot by Steven Klein with Lara Stone has just land on time! (Check it out on TFS or MH dennis thread)

Now Mr Johnson is on his way to the super A-LIST. No tricky play, the boy might be holding a Dolce something in the future, or even better, Calvin Klein.

New York mgmt's New Face Gen soon in town

WOW~ The boy got a whole package! Havent seen this kinda material ever since...ah...since Will Chalker! New York models got themselves A deal indeed! This is a cash cow, we can see how hes guna beat and hit and stomp around in the runways with heavy noise. We also can see how photographers call-ups guna fullfill the onset morning bookings and cant wait for refill.

We are so excited! Finally A real rising star on the sack. Wait a min, where they got this from... Grapes would better make the call, cos man! This young star is precious!

SEASON'S PERFUME

The New Valentino Documentary Is Amazing

Last night we were treated to a screening of the new Valentino documentary, Valentino: The Last Emperor. The film, directed by former Vanity Fair editor Matt Tyrnauer, follows Valentino and his partner, Giancarlo Giammetti, just before Valentino's retirement. And it's amazing in just the way we hoped. If you loved the Karl Lagerfeld documentary, Lagerfeld Confidential (which you did), you will adore this just as much. Valentino doesn't frolic around on an airplane in a kimono like Karl, but we see him and Giancarlo lovingly bicker over dresses, fashion-show sets, and even which café they first met at. And as if they're not adorable and hilarious enough, there are the clothes! Glorious, glorious dress after dress coming to life before your very eyes! Each sequin and every panel sewn on by hand; sometimes six or seven seamstresses work on a dress at once. We see inside Valentino's atelier in the midst of designing the couture collections, where the hard-ass head seamstress tells her minions their work sucks when it already looks perfect.

But our very favorite parts were the cameos by Karl Lagerfeld and Vogue editors Hamish Bowles and André Leon Talley. The film follows Vava and Giancarlo as they put together his 45th-anniversary show, party to celebrate it at the Coliseum, and retrospective. Hamish is called in as a consultant on the retrospective, and we see him giddy to be in a room with 45 years of Valentino clothes. But he did not take the schoolgirl cake. Oh no. That belongs to André, who is fitted for a vintage Valentino robe to wear to the Coliseum party and bursts into shrieks of ecstasy at just seeing his options in the showroom. We think he may have even jumped up and down. And then at the retrospective, Vava takes Karl Lagerfeld by the hand to a room where 45 years of his dresses are hung. They marvel together at the work that went into it, and Karl says to Vava, "Look what we do. Everyone else — they are making rags." So in sum, Valentino's six adorable pugs are far from the best part. And yes, they're amazing, too.

Gucci Embroiled in ‘Spy Scandal’

Prosecutors in Italy suspect Gucci Group staff of breaking into the Ministry of the Interior's data bank. Which means Gucci's got a full-on spy scandal on their hands! We know this is probably a horrible, horrible, annoying thing for Gucci to deal with, but labeling it a "spy scandal" gives it such a James Bond glam quality — and everything Gucci's involved in must be glam, after all. Gucci offices in Italy could be in disarray since prosecutors ordered a search of them this week. Italian authorities have ordered the arrest of seven people they suspect of obtaining information illegally, including Carlo Del Bo, Gucci’s former head of security. A Gucci spokesman said the company must ensure its suppliers don't employ child laborers and make regular tax payments and they don't know how this information is obtained. But many private investigators in Italy are former cops or tax officers, so they could have access to secret data banks and files.

Del Bo's arrest is also connected to a wiretapping scandal. In July it was reported that Alessandra Facchinetti's phone was tapped when she headed design for Gucci, though no one knows why.

TOM IS READY TO POP THE QUESTION!

Ever since the whole location thing got out on the street, the Brazlian supermodel effortlessly ignored questions posed by the paparazzi about her injured beau Tom Brady.

Though she remained mum, we’ve got some details about the gorgeous couple’s rumoured enagement. Days before undergoing knee surgery in L.A. on October 6, Tom reportedly sneaked into Cartier in Beverly Hills to check out a five-carat yellow diamond engagement ring flanked by two triangular diamonds.

A source tells In Touch: “He’s seriously considering proposing. Tom has a lot of free time now that he may miss the entire football season. It’s made him realize he’s finally ready to get married.”
The cost of Gisele’s blinged out engagement ring? A $145 000.

NOTE: Grapes feels sorry for Miss Bundchen, 5 Carat and yellow is the most stereotypical type you can have as in high society, and the flank set is the least stylish, considering that they are triangular, so we could say the yellow is a round one, and since that's catier, we pretty much got the dimensional version of such an individual. We are good friends with Cartier but the thing is, Tom might wanna give a call to Harry Winston. Cartier might having the popular attention due to its shamelessly global love publicists, but as for true love and classical, they are not the only option, all in all, that's what Gisele deserves, True love and Classical. Damn it! Work on it Brady!

Guns N’ Roses: Chinese Democracy

Remeber Guns N’ Roses?
Yeah, we hardly do either, but their new album, Chinese Democracy, will OFFICIALLY be available on November 23 at Best Buy. This is the first album of new material from the band since 1991.
The title track and first single was released to radio today. Our thoughts? Is an Axl Rose comeback in the near future?

FASHION SENSE

There’s a reason GQ doesn’t usually feature politicians on its cover—namely, that they’re about as stylish as a file cabinet. But Obama has clearly separated himself from the pack after recently gracing the covers of both GQ and Men’s Vogue (which earned him a reproach from Maureen Dowd). His trademark look is collared shirt, sports jacket, flat-front pants, and no tie, an ensemble that’s classy but not stuffy. Of course, more serious occasions call for a tie, which Obama wears expertly, apparently. “The tie has a dimple in the knot; it's pulled up pretty authoritatively into his collar,” says menswear designer Alan Flusser in a Washingtonian piece on Obama’s fashion sense. But Flusser isn’t that impressed, saying, “He doesn't dress that specially. If he were wearing a pocket handkerchief, then I would say here is somebody who's trying to develop a sartorial sophistication.” One thing you won’t find on Obama’s lapel is an American-flag pin. Critics equated the missing accessory with Obama’s disdain for America, but the candidate brushed them off: “My attitude is that I'm less concerned about what you're wearing on your lapel than what's in your heart. You show your patriotism by how you treat your fellow Americans,” he reasoned. No word on if there’s a support-the-troops magnet on his car.

CA$HMERE!

Its getting cold these days huh...I barely knew that (cos I always stay in lately), until answering machine keeps rolling something like this: Hey,Sweets, so the other day I was at barney's and my eyes were all on a pashmina sweater, but before I run into anything stupid or critically shame enough for you to judge, I'd like to hear from you.. .only a lit bit, dont give me the whole history about men style thing. Thanks."

Okay! Fair enough, so lets do the shop till you drop thing....nah..just kidding, but I got some ideas while you boys might be considering.

In Autumn, for cashmere (or pashmina) you could always go to barney's, some of the best dressed and well educated buyers are working for them. I learned how to choose a perfect tie for my dad's business meeting in there when I was 17.  Dont play coy, just ask whatever you need to know. Its not really necessary that your cashmere sweater got all the prada edging vibe, but a good fitting is a must, also, the good quality reflects the warm, silky,tender feeling of your skin which must be solved by Trying them on.

You'd also like to try bloomingdale's or other big names, but be careful, we got some feedbacks and sometimes they are not good.

On buying the brand, almost every single famous name you can pop up  is making cashmere these days,Like  Malo, Tse,( as you can see in there ads, cashmere is always the point.) Pringle of Scotland also mentioned by cashmere wearers. Burberry, McQueen and Ralph Lauren have the cashmere products time to time, Marc Jacobs is a lit bit pricy, Ann Taylor is reasonable and wearable, and J Crew's is nice around $300-500 (made by Piana).

BUT some certain brands are always the prime leaders in this field.

Loro Piana, Filatura di Crosa, Cariaggi and Noro Cash, all got good reputations, Lucien Pellat-Finet ? sure, if you can also afford a townhouse in sixth, that brand is the cashmere answers to french hermes, one of the highest priced cashmere products around..

On how to "keep" it, call your girlfriend for a lovely home stay dinner, and hand it over to her,

she needs to fold it gently into a square box (if the origin mysteriously lost already then ask her about last xmas the big big  blue box of the tiffany's) before professional dry-clean's done, you are not suppose to throw a $1000 bill in the couch.

And last things last, the little detail that goes with your perfect warming body, when stocking your cashmere in the closet,choose the perfume that has wood in it and largely spray, denseness, tenderness and manly, that smell will slightly turn into a crystal lighten throw the whole year stocking, when winter calls for reopen, you'd load yourself a clean-cut,irresistible taste. So give your girl a holiday Hug now, cos she'd love to be embraced by you and your comfort cashmere.